If you've heard about Dawson at
all, chances
are you've heard it was the site of two of the world's worst mining
disasters.
It was, but it was also a town of over 9,000 people, complete with
schools,
an opera house, a hospital, a hotel, a gymnasium, a church - even a
bowling
alley. It was a company town, owned and operated by Phelps Dodge, and a
home for miners who had come from all over the world.
People fell in love in Dawson.
Little girls
cried when they skinned their knees. Someone dreamed about leaving,
seeing
the world and becoming famous. Dawson could have been Anytown, USA. But
two terrible mining disasters, one on October
22, 1913, and another in February
of 1923, ensured that Dawson would forever be remembered with
sadness
as well, and that may be the worst tragedy.
Over 350 white iron crosses in the
Dawson
Cemetery mark the graves of those who perished in the mining disasters.
The cemetery is now the only part of Dawson still open to the public
after
Phelps Dodge shut the town down in 1950.
These silent sentinels, some with individual names and some unmarked,
are
moving reminders of the tragic deaths of the victims. And, more
importantly,
their lives.
I visited the Dawson Cemetery at
twilight.
The air was cool and I was alone, and yet, of course, not. I walked
slowly
through the dried grass, thinking that the crosses would always be
here,
guarding the mountain.
A childish but persistent thought nagged
me:
Are they cold?
Now, many miles and many days away
from my
visit, I remember the miners sleeping in the cemetery at the foothills.
When I reflect on my visit, I feel that just by thinking about the
place
I am intruding on its solitude, interrupting it mentally. I know that
the
crosses - larger in memory than they probably actually are - still
exist,
still guard, still remind. I know that the air still hangs heavy
with
something that should be making a sound but isn't. Can I hear it
now
that I'm gone? I listen harder, but nothing comes. Dawson, like a
shooting
star, is silent.