To say that Mogollon is
"mogollonic" is
circular, I realize, but after driving 10 or so miles on a winding
and often single-lane road to reach the place, even your thoughts will
be playing Twister. The earth is a large part of what "makes"
Mogollon. A clump of buildings stand together like a cottonwood grove,
feeding off the little stream running through the center of town. The
surrounding
mountains shelter the town in a bosom of green and brown. Wetness
pervades.
When I was there, snow was melting off building roofs and tree
branches,
making plopping sounds as patches fell to the ground. The sound made me
think someone was jumping out at me from around every corner. But when
I turned around - and I did, often - only shadows and snow.
Mogollon
has secrets.
Mogollon also has a history that rivals Old
Testament
tales. Five devastating fires, four floods, two red-light districts,
robberies,
stagecoach holdups, etc. One of the most interesting characters to
emerge
from this history is James Cooney, whose discovery of gold in the
Mogollon
Mountains while on an Army mapping expedition in 1870
led to the creation of mining camps in this location. Cooney was later
killed by Apaches and buried in a boulder by his friends. (See Cooney's
Tomb.)
Mother Nature is a big part of life at
Mogollon, and the
town has reached an accord with the land around it. The two seem
inseparable,
even mutually dependent. There is harmony in the sound of the little
creek
as it trickles past Holland's Furniture and Notions. The melting snow,
the gentle wind, the ornamental tin on some of the buildings, the smell
of mined earth, the cracking sound - real or imagined? - of wet wood,
the
shadows ever-present at the edges of the trees.
Like I said, it's a very Mogollonic
place.